This past weekend, I had the great pleasure of experiencing the Daphne Guinness exhibition at The Museum at FIT in NYC–and boy, was I glad that I did. If I was forced to sum up the exhibit in just one word, it would be: immaculate.
Running from September 17, 2011 through to January 7, 2012, this exhibition offers a glimpse into the closet of the esteemed designer, muse, model and heiress, Daphne Guinness. There are very few people in the world who collect couture in the same veracity as she who at the same time find themselves in a position to then inspire the same designers responsible for a large part of her vast collection–namely, Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel, Alexander McQueen, Nina Ricci and Rick Owens.
The exhibition itself masterfully creates an intimate runway-inspired environment for the viewer so that the (s)he can inspect every garment from every direction through dramatic spotlighting and screen partitions. It is truly a sensory overload in the best of possible ways.
One thing to note: This, in my opinion, is an exhibit created by fashion insiders for fashion insiders–which could possibly pose as a drawback if British and French couture isn’t exactly your field of expertise. I suggest checking out recent collections from the above mentioned designers at style.com or here, with us, before making your way up to the Big Apple, as there isn’t a whole lot of descriptive text accompanying the works on view. Nevertheless, do not let this fact deter you. This is truly a fantastic collection from a one-of-a-kind woman that is not to be missed.
Photos provided courtesy of style.com, fitnyc.edu, fashionprojects.org, and wmagazine.com
Asphyxiating corsets, leather and chain harnesses, body-clinging latex dresses… you don’t have to be an ass-kicking S&M domme to appreciate or even don fantasy-driven fetish pieces such as these, but we do suggest that you bring a fearless attitude with suspension-pierced cojones to match. As we say our final saddened adieus to Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty, we can’t help but reminisce over the late great’s Fall 2009 RTW Collection (my personal favorite), the hauntingly beautiful women who walked it (and by hauntingly beautiful, I mean absolutely terrifying–these women will eat your insides for dinner or just for fun and you will of course, enjoy it), and the sadomasochistic/goth influences that seasoned this collection (and countless others of his), bringing these subcultures to light in a way that no other designer ever has.
In celebration of Lee Alexander McQueen, the closing of Savage Beauty, and the immortal contributions he has made to the world of fashion and beyond, we present to you the handmade creations of several emerging designers who have tapped into a vein that we believe McQueen himself would lend a nod of approval to.
I find beauty in the grotesque, like most artists. I have to force people to look at things. –LAM
1. Antiseptic Fashion Sima Leather Harness, $400
2. Antiseptic Fashion Acedia Leather Corset, $600
3. Antiseptic Fashion Hypsipyle Leather Corset and Pastie, $620
4. Misfit Leather Leather and Chain Wings, $165
5. HMS Latex Circle Halter Dress, $211 (Not pictured)
6. HMS Latex Cage Dress, $294
7. HMS Latex Bang Bang Top, $329
Runway photographs provided courtesy of nymag.com
Said to be the McQueen of footwear, the creations of Nicholas Kirkwood immediately reveal themselves to be part footwear, part… work of art. And yet, every single pair from the designer’s S/S 2011 Collection would serve as the perfect complement to the simplest of little black (white, or tan) dresses. Fashion fantasy alert! Salacious Gucci mini + NK footwear. Sigh–I could only HOPE to don an outfit that is just that bangin’ before I die. Hell, I’d wear any pair of these with a pair of vintage Levi’s and a white t-shirt, too, if I had the chance. Sometimes, fantasies really do come true… right?!
Well, you can imagine the price tags involved here (we’re talking around $800 and beyond), but functional design that incorporates devoré satin, hand-printed suede, and materials such as python, shaved stingray, and cobra has its price, people. The German-born-British-based designer has already lent a hand to the runway shows of Rodarte and Erdem, but select pieces of his work are also on sale to the general public at Neiman’s, Bluefly, Nordstrom, and Saks, were you can actually find the exact shoe worn on the Erdem runways—what say you to that? Yup, two mega-designers in one–for $850. Dress like a model, look like a badass. Where do I sign up?
We’re sure you’ve all heard by now, but we thought it appropriate to reiterate the importance of the opening of Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty, an exhibition put forth by the Metropolitan Museum of Art earlier this month in New York. Organized by The Costume Institute, this exhibit pays tribute to the legacy and genius of the late prodigious designer Lee Alexander McQueen, and showcases collections of his work spanning from 1992 to February 2010.
As you might have suspected, we here at VG are ecstatic over this pivotal transpiration in fashion history, and think that you‘d be a bit out-of-your-mind to miss out on this experience of a lifetime—and that’s no exaggeration.
The title, Savage Beauty, as explained by Andrew Bolton, curator of this exhibition, is one that perfectly embodies the contrasting opposition of themes heavily embedded in all of McQueen’s work–polarized opposites, whether it’s to do with life or death, lightness or darkness, predator and prey, or man and machine.
SHOWstudio: Plato’s Atlantis – Alexander McQueen, Nick Knight, Ruth Hogben
For me personally, Savage Beauty means a great deal, as I’ve always found McQueen to be such a fascinating and indubitably inspiring figure—not just as a fashion designer, but as a master storyteller, a filmmaker, an artist, and a visionary who was able to bring humanity, history, power, suspense and an entire range of emotion to the runway in a way that I had never before seen nor felt. There are very few things that compare to standing before his work up-close and in-person, so we suggest making it your priority this summer before time runs out on July 31.
Helpful Tip: Due to the massive popularity of this exhibition, we advise planning your visit for a weekday (preferably during early morning hours) to avoid crowd congestion. For museum hours, admission fees and other information, click here.
Kate Moss For Alexander McQueen
All photos courtesy of the metmuseum.org
I may not read my horoscope every day, but I definitely believe that astrological signs have some sort of bearing on our personalities. And as our GLOSSARY may have already given away, we here at VG tend to take our signs rather seriously… and, apparently, British Vogue does too!
I know, I know, the two of us just have so very much in common…
Anyway, in their latest December issue, British Vogue is all about some astrology. For this particular spread, each sign of the zodiac was paired up with a corresponding top designer (seriously, how fun is this?) for an awe-inspiring, whimsical editorial entitled Star Signs, all shot by Tim Gutt and starring model Siri Tollerand–the Brits (once again) really show us how it’s done…
The whole spread is just so refreshing and so unique… I really have to wonder how the heck they dreamed up these AMAZING scenes. The editorial too, is out-of-this-world (no pun intended!), and so much so that I simply had to share it with all of you…
Have you taken a stab at which is your sign yet?
Designers for each Sun Sign
Aries (Ram) in Alexander McQueen
Taurus (Bull) in Dolce & Gabbana
Gemini (Twins) in Stella McCartney
Cancer (Crab) in Nina Ricci
Leo (Lion) in Lanvin
Virgo (Virgin) in Christopher Kane
Libra (Balance) in Louise Goldin
Scorpio (Scorpion) in Altuzarra
Sagittarius (Centaur) in Givenchy
Capricorn (Goat) in Chloé
Aquarius (Water Carrier) in a Shona Heath-designed costume
Pisces (Fish) in Miu Miu
Photos courtesy of British Vogue
Imagine you’ve just been abducted by aliens… from the future. What will you be wearing? You’ve arrived in a dark, cold, post-apocalyptic world, but rest assured… Gareth Pugh has got you covered.
Boasting avant-garde cuts and out of this world styling, Pugh is definitely a designer to watch when it comes to the future of fashion, as he nobly maintains a fashion-as-performance-art aesthetic. Pugh’s use of neutral tones never casts a dull light on his creations; he knows how to make it and his stylists definitely know how to work it, which makes for an ultimate presentation of otherwise unassuming colors.
Most designers stick by the rules. They know what works, so they continue to create it. These designers understand that most women don’t want to take big risks when it comes to fashion and there is absolutely nothing wrong with that. Gareth Pugh, however, is on the opposite end of the spectrum, just as Alexander McQueen was when he first blew up the fashion scene in the mid-90’s…
Pugh’s collections received critical acclaim since the designer’s first solo show during London’s Fall Fashion Week in 2006; Pugh was quickly recognized for his raw talent and was featured in magazines across the world… all the while, squatting in converted warehouses, struggling to pay the bills. It seemed as though the fashion world wasn’t quite ready for his off-the-cuff silhouettes when he launched his first collection for a group show in 2005. Today, Pugh continues to stay true to himself and lets his work do the talking. I was amazed while admiring his spring/summer ’11 collection a few weeks ago during Paris Fashion Week, and I have been stalking his work ever since.
What I really love about Pugh is that he knows what he likes and that’s all that matters. To him, fashion is more about the art of clothing versus what everyone will be wearing next season. I am so inspired by his use of inverted forms and distorted styling, which both manage to create truly one-of-a-kind fashion presentations. Thank you, Mr. Pugh. Thank you for continuing to push the fashion envelope in a world where we’d rather play it safe!
Photos courtesy of Style.com